Sardine Factory, Monterey.
Despite the cheesy name and the proximity to Cannery Row (not to mention the boat out front and the waiter’s goofy uniform), this is actually a somewhat elegant restaurant. I didn’t intend to take myself out somewhere nice, but after my shower — courtesy of the Veteran’s Memorial Park campground that’s a lot nicer than it sounds — I felt like having a bite of seafood.
I managed to resist the temptation to sample Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Company, mainly due to the high tourist content apparent in the waiting area. Other Cannery Row restaurants were too horrifying to consider.
The oysters were from Tomales Bay, and though small and stubborn were tasty morsels. I’m planning on maximizing my bivalve consumption this trip, so I guess I have to have a beer too.
I chose the Veteran’s Park campground after checking out the other local recommendations, which were out in Carmel Valley and were very trailer-parky not to mention overpriced. The state campgrounds run $15–$20 a night; from what I can tell roadside camping isn’t really legal anywhere anymore.
I didn’t recognise either the parking spot or the cliffs where the dog almost died (Mom’s golden retriever Midas, years ago near Big Sur); but I did stop and look at some sculpture gardens in Big Sur. I would have picked up a copy of Tropic of Cancer at the Henry Miller library/bookstore/museum but I’m already booked-out. I recommend the bathroom there, though, with lots of interesting stuff to read on the walls.