Grasso’s Italian Restaurant, El Centro, California. Rated ★★★★☆
When I was growing up — thirty or forty years ago — this was the only Italian restaurant in El Centro. As far as I’m concerned, it’s still the only one worth going to.
Two rooms: the front room is fancy (for El Centro), the back room is casual and a better place to sit with screaming children. This is one of those places where you know everything is good, but you still order the same thing every time.
For me: the minestrone soup and salad with great homemade dressing. Some shared pizza — thin crust, plain pepperoni. Then spaghetti and ravioli, or maybe lasagna.
My dad has the fried chicken and usually shares it. There’s something about crispy, garlicky Italian fried chicken that makes you wonder why you bother with the Colonel. If they have them, try the tomatoes and onions — seasonal, with local Imperial Sweet onions — or the fried chicken livers.
The place apparently closes for months when the owners go back to Italy. Which is right. It’s been here as long as I can remember, and it will be here when I come back.