Two weeks through Zion, Bryce, Canyonlands, Moab, Jackson Hole, and Yellowstone.
September 18 — Casablanca Hotel, Mesquite, NV. Yesterday morning I went to move the rental car and the fob had fallen off, leaving the key behind — the key to a different car, apparently. Round trip to San Diego airport, round trip to Dodge dealer, no assistance from their roadside assistance. Had to have the car towed to Dodge to be rekeyed. But just before the tow truck arrived, I dug around in the garage near where I’d set stuff down and found the damned fob. Left noonish. Today we head to Zion.
September 19 — Springdale, UT. Spent the day hiking in Zion, to the Hanging Gardens and then up Hidden Canyon trail — up up up about a mile and a half and 1,000 feet, along rock faces where you have to hold on to a chain to keep from feeling like you were about to fall. Relaxed on the lawn by Zion Lodge, came back to the hotel early so Becke could do her online test prep class. Weather was beautiful, in the 80s, glad most of our hike was shaded. Tomorrow we’re going to hike “The Narrows” — we rented water shoes. Most of the hike is in the 60-degree Virgin River, and apparently about half a mile in there’s a place you have to swim across. Glad we’re in the dry season.
September 20 — Bryce Canyon, UT. We spent the morning at Zion up to Emerald Pools, made it all the way to the top where the canyon wall was spectacular. Then changed into wetsuit socks and strap-on boots, and went up The Narrows. After walking in a mile, the trail ends and you step into the river. About a quarter-mile in, you go through a narrow canyon where the water was up to our chests. The rest of the way was wading back and forth across the river, lots of rocks — hard to watch your feet all the time when you keep staring up at the canyon walls. We got about two miles in, two hours each way, to a narrow slot called “Wall Street.” Saw mule deer and wild turkeys near Zion Lodge. Made it out to Bryce just after dark. We’re staying at “Ruby’s Inn” — hot tub was hot.
September 21 — Moab, UT. Ruby’s Inn buffet was barely edible even if hungry from hiking; the hot tub was hot and well chlorinated; the gift shop was an hallucinogenic experience, from camping gear to native American trinkets to grocery to post office, all wildly colored and irresistible, though we somehow managed.
Tuesday we drove the canyon rim, tried to hike but our calves were sore; tried to do a horse ride but they have a 220-lb weight limit. Then headed over toward Canyonlands, through Escalante and some amazingly beautiful canyon country on Highway 12 — through poplars and range cattle, down to Capitol Reef, which the guidebooks sort of indicate is forgettable, but we got there before dusk and enjoyed the sunset on the cliffs and a drive down a winding canyon dirt road, then a steak dinner with a million-dollar view.
Canyonlands is really four different sections divided by the Colorado and Green rivers: Needles, Arches, Island In the Sky, and The Maze — the latter only accessible by serious 4x4s, which you see a lot of in Moab. We went down to Needles and did a nice long hike through hoodoos and slickrock. Had dinner at the Moab Brewery, where they can’t serve more than two beer samplers at a time because of state law. They do have amazing scenery, but the infrastructure is still hindered by Mormons.
September 22 — Green River, UT. Had a slow-to-get-moving morning — seems to happen after long hiking days. Toured around Arches, took a few short hikes, but by the time we got to the main trail it was way too hot. Instead we did a car tour, then went over to the Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands where it was quite a bit cooler, walked around the outlooks at the tops of the mesas overlooking the canyons of the Colorado and the Green rivers.
September 23 — Teton Village, WY. Green River to Jackson Hole — long easy drive. Rode by Sundance; drove up the mountains behind Brighton. As you come up to Wyoming, you pass back and forth between Utah, Wyoming, and Idaho. Passed a guy with a horse-drawn wagon making some political statement; wish I’d turned around to get a look. Dipped my feet in the Snake just before Jackson.
Last night we stayed in the Knights Inn in Green River. Beds hard as plywood, mysterious stains, nasty sheets. Tonight was the Snake River Lodge and Spa — comfy beds, flat screen TV with no channels worth watching, and a nice spa included with the room. I spent a while in the hot tub and sauna; Becke had her nails done. Nice contrast.
September 24–25 — Yellowstone. Grand Tetons were named, apparently, by the French, who thought they looked like breasts. On the 25th we saw: a happy coyote leaping on brunch; many bison; a mangy coyote with ribs showing; mountain goats; traventine ponds; an elk; a couple of river otters; a petrified tree.
September 26 — St. George, UT. Got up early to see more wildlife in Yellowstone on our way out. More bison, a bald eagle, the 1988 burned park center, Christmas tree lane to artists paint pots. Short stop for tourist trappings in West Yellowstone, then marathon drive down through Salt Lake.
By the way, I was connected to the internet over 3G on my phone, tethered to the computer for Becke’s class and the iPad for maps. Not taking much of a vacation from technology, but it’s darned cool to be able to do it — with the GPS showing where you are in real time.
The Dodge Journey got great gas mileage and plenty of space for piles of junk, and wasn’t afraid of a national park dirt road.